a look at the Ikea Jerker height extension connectors

The Ikea Jerker height extension kit came with two of these, item number “106213” as it was called in the official Ikea Jerker version 1 instructions manual.

Ikea Jerker Connectors (from a version 1 desk)

Here are three scans of a version 2 connector (from the side, the front and a bottom):

Ikea Jerker height extension connector Version 2

Ikea Jerker height extension connector Version 2

Ikea Jerker height extension connector Version 2

In either case they have nearly the same dimensions and are designed to allow you to add leg extensions for added top shelf verticality. For the version 2 Ikea Jerker desk, two came with every box that looked like this:

Ikea Jerker Version 2 Height Extension Kit (and Top Shelf)erkerbox2

As Jerkers themselves become harder and harder to find it is the little things, like these plastic connectors (and the hard to find bolts that inspired this website), that get even more scarce.

So, with this post I am documenting the size, shape, and design of the “106213” connector. I hope this will be useful for the 3d printing crowd, and/or for an experienced woodworker to maybe play around with.

Ikea Jerker height extension connector piece dimensions

The original “height extension connector” (aka the “106213”) is made of polyproploene plastic (that’s number 5 on the recycling chart), and is basically a hollow box with exterior dimensions of the interior of a Jerker leg.

When properly placed, the height extension connector can be pushed down into the top of a leg until the connector reaches its halfway point where when what I’m calling the “lip” will prevent it from going too far down. Then, eight nuts, previously placed into both ends of the connector can be bolted into place and provide a secure and mostly wobble free upper story (or two) to your Ikea Jerker (btw, it may be the case that newer version 2 connectors have a more wobble free design – but I have not done enough studies to confirm this).

As you can see with the bottom view of my illustration (pictured above) there hollow “racecar” shape on the inside of the version 1 (and a kind of boxier version in the version 2). Harder to see, in my digital reconstruction, are the chamfered edges at the top and bottom that allow the connector to start easy.

You may also have noted some suspicious-looking packing tape placed over the ends of the black extension connectors. These are my own idea, with the intention of preventing my nuts from falling out and running down my leg.

Yeah, you can laugh, but this is serious Jerker life, and I’ve had my nuts fall down my legs (perhaps because the old polypropylene retainers have been aging).

Anyway, to avoid your own nut loss I recommend you place a piece of packing tape on the bottom of your own connectors (but be sure to puncture the holes you’ve covered up with the tape so as to make it easier for your bolts to screw into the nuts).

In addition, here is the proper placement from the instructional cutaway:

Height Extension Connector Instructions from the Ikea Jerker version 1 manual

In case you were wondering, life without extension connectors gets very complicated and less space efficient, looking something like this:

heightening an Ikea Jerker without plastic connectors

For more on how I did this hack, look at my post entitled Heightening Your Ikea Jerker The Hard Way.

How to add casters to your Ikea Jerker – PART 1: Drilling and Mounting

Do you sometimes need to drag your Jerker away from the wall to get at the your desk’s cords and cables? We do too. But a cool Jerker owner doesn’t just drag his Jerker around, he glides it.

I spotted this ever so slightly modded Ikea Jerker version 1 on Craigslist a while back – but honestly – I don’t think it would work. Those casters look like they were stolen from some cheap plastic cart or some cheap plastic chair.

A Jerker with casters?

If you’re going to go Jerker, I say go steel and go big. To that end, this post, the first of three, is designed to get your Jerker up on casters.

To follow our design you will need four casters, two with brakes like the one in the image below. The two casters with the foot-activated stoppers go on the front of the Jerker, the other two, simple free-wheeling casters, go on the back. The casters we used in the post are 3″ in diameter, 1 1/8″ wide, and rated for 180 lbs each. Following our formula, you will also need eight 3 1/2″ steel bolts, eight matching nuts, and eight lock washers. You local hardware store should have everything you need. The pictured caster costs $16Can each up here in the Great White North.

Do not try to thread the Jerker’s legs to attach the casters as the leg metal is too thin and soft. I tried and it immediately stripped the threads tightening the bolt.

You’ll want to drill straight through the bottom and then the top of the leg. After the first hole has been drilled, attach the caster with a bolt and nut. Then drill through one of the holes in the caster’s plate, from the bottom. You drill from the bottom via the caster to ensure the bolt will fit in case your drill bit wanders. Once the hole has been started you will need to remove the caster to be able to drill all the way through.

If you are unable to drill all the way through you can use a center punch so that your drill bit does not wander. Remember to measure twice.

This is what your typical steel bolt looks like.

And here is one of many types of lock washer.

 

Here you can see my drill bit barely getting through the second side of the leg. You should try to get the holes to be as snug as possible. If you are unsure of your bits and bolts do a test drilling through some scrap lumber. This scene is after I have drilled a hole guided by the hole in the caster’s base; only the bottom of the metal leg needs to have the holes match perfectly.

And here is the first caster bolted on. Note that the nuts are on the bottom side, out of the way, with lock washers.

Remember to put the two casters with brakes on the front. Lock washers keep the nuts from getting loose and falling off of the bolts. It is bad form to have a wobbly Jerker (even if you’re not British).

 

 

Yep, this is what a metal drill bit looks like. Do not forget safety glasses if you don’t wear glasses.

 

 

Here is one leg with casters, yep kinda ugly. I advise mounting the casters on the inside so that they won’t hit anything, such as a wall or toe. The Jerker leg moves fine on thick carpet with me standing on the leg.

 

These two drill bits are for wood only, and will not work on metal.

 

Here are some cement drill bits, yes, just for cement.

No casters were harmed in the making of this post.

the Ikea Jerker keyboard drawer (there wasn’t one)

Okay so there is no “Jerker” branded keyboard drawer – people sometimes say there is, like in the ad for the one pictured below:

Ikea Jerker KEYBOARD DRAWER

Ikea Jerker KEYBOARD DRAWER

Ikea Jerker KEYBOARD DRAWER

Now this is an Ikea product, and it seems to fit under Jerker, but it is actually a “Summera” (product number 10035) keyboard drawer, and it was designed to fit various older Ikea desks. Some of the Summera product line is still around – as are the Signum desk accessories (which were mostly designed for GALANT and MICKE desks).

But to my mind, the question is: Is this the keyboard drawer you should use with your Jerker?

None of my Jerkers have (or have had) a keyboard tray. Do they need them?

Previous desks I’ve owned have actually had decent built in keyboard trays but they also have had room for a mouse and a mouse pad (or even a Forminco “Mouse Arena”) – I’m thinking the Summera design just looks a little too wimpy.

On the other hand, the Galant desk below looks pretty good all kitted out with a Summera keyboard tray and Summera CPU hanger.

Summera accessories on a Galant

By the way, did you notice the size of the keyboard? It’s one of those compact ones.

Have you had any experience with the Summera tray on a Jerker? Or, have you come up with one of your own or maybe built one?

I don’t think I’m actually in the market, but if I were were looking to modify my Jerkers with a Keyboard tray I’d go with something substantial, like this Ergotron design:

Ergotron Keyboard Tray Arm

The the Ergotron’s mounting bracket wouldn’t automatically fit into the Jerker leg hole pattern I think a little drilling might solve that.

add an Ekby Alex drawer set to your Ikea Jerker desktop

Designed as a standalone shelf, the Ekby Alex drawer unit can make a very, very useful addition to an Ikea Jerker (version 2) desk.

Ikea Ekby Alex (drawer unit)

Official Ikea Jerker drawers are pretty hard to come by, in part because they were an optional item, in part because they’re were not designed to be paired with for ⅔rds of the Jerker desk designs.

But, the Ekby Alex drawer shelf just so happens, and believe me I was very excited when I found out, to fit absolutely perfectly between the legs of an Ikea Jerker (version 2) desk. You could place one of these units on a top shelf, but the fact is, even if you use it where it is most hand, on the desktop, it still leaves you with lots of desk-space for keyboard, mouse, joystick, and similar peripherals.

The Alex Ekby comes in one long box. It’s actually manageable to carry out of the store, but is a bit heavy, weighing 12kg (27lbs). The build time is about a half-hour. In addition to the parts an pieces in the box you’ll also need a hammer (the back is assembled with about thirty little nails), a flathead screwdriver and a Phillips head screwdriver.

Here’s a video showing the whole build process:

As mentioned in the video, be sure to note the sizes of the connector pieces, in my build I didn’t at first distinguish between them and it took a bit of time to straighten my mess out.

Once together, I found the Alex Ekby to be a very sturdy little shelf drawer set.

One other point to bear in mind, the drawers only pull out slightly more than half way; but the insides of the two drawers have plenty of space: The horizontal space measures, front to back 24cm (9.5 inches) and 54cm (21.25 inches) from side to side. And the depth is a mere 5.75cm (2.5 inches). One drawer will fit one ream of printer paper and dozens of pens pencils, erasers, a couple of pairs of scissors and a stapler. But most tape guns, office sized tape dispensers, and three hole punchers will not fit in these drawers.

Here are photos of mine in use.

Ikea Alex Ekby on an Ikea Jerker (version 2)

Ikea Alex Ekby on an Ikea Jerker (version 2) drawer open

And, for those Jerker owners don’t have enough top shelves, or just want to be different, you can also use the Alex Ekby (or two?) as a monitor riser. The Alex Ekby is rated to support 22kg (44 lbs) and each would raise your monitor by 11.5cm (4.5 inches).

Here’s a scan of the end of the box:

Ikea Ekby Alex (Drawer Unit)

3D-printed Ikea Jerker desk accessories are AWESOME

I’d never thought of anything I wanted to 3D print, until now.

Check out these two 3D-printed Ikea Jerker desk accessories (specially designed for the Jerker) available for anyone to 3D print or order from Thingverse:

I particularly like this headphone hanger.

3D printed headphone hanger for Ikea Jerker

3D printed headphone hanger for Ikea Jerker

You can download the plan or order HERE.

I’m not a Sony Playstation 4 owner, but check this out!

Playstation 4 hanger for Ikea Jerker

You can download the plan or order HERE.

And, there are many other accessories that get new uses out of other Ikea products – take for example this webcam mount for the ubiquitous $10 Ikea Tertial worklamp:

 WALT the Webcam Mount (Logitech C910)

You can download the plan or order HERE.

You may even already have a Tertial, it looks like this:

Ikea Tertial work lamp

There are dozens of 3D printed items available for the Tertial, check it out HERE.

Have you printed any of these, or anything else for your Jerker setup?

Ikea Jerker bookends (!?)

Here’s an Ikea Jerker accessory (if real) that I’ve never seen before.

Listed in a craigslist ad as “originally for Jerker unit” I think they’re actually not, but they may be a discontinued item that fits Jerker shelves.

Have a look:

Craigslist ad for Ikea Jerker bookends

Based on the image, I suspect that they’re actually the Ikea Inreda “Bookends” (circa 2008):

Inreda Bookends and Magazine Ends (circa 2008)

Does anyone have a set?

Do they actually fit Ikea Jerker top shelves?

adding a Barska biometric safe to an Ikea Jerker

Just as every desktop computer needs security, so does every desk. But most of the desktop safes I looked at seemed either too inefficient or too inconvenient.

I’m all about trying to maximize desk space and and workflow efficiency.

I wanted fast, safe and secure access, that wouldn’t require me to ask anyone to turn away, and access that wouldn’t necessitate a key.

I kept looking and found the Barska biometric safe (model number BX-300).

Barska BX300

It allows for fast and efficient secure storage using biometrics. And since it doesn’t have access to the internet or bluetooth, it is essentially unhackable without being in the room with it. In essence, it has all the advantages of an iPhone fingerprint scan with none of the compromises.

The Barska BX-300 is fast, eliminates the worry about people checking out your password or lock combination.

Barska Biometric Safe added to an Ikea Jerker

And here’s the pictures I took during installation:
001

The original holes in the swing arm shelf are circled in red, and the new drilled holes for mounting to the bottom of the Barska BX-300 are circled in blue.
002

Widening a countersink for the central bolt.
003

Here’s the bottom of the Barska safe, the slot aligns nearly perfectly with the thickness of a swing arm shelf.
004

Here’s the bottom of the swing arm shelf with the holes drilled through.
005

The inside of the safe, bolted to the arm’s shelf.
007

Here’s the included carpet for the interior bottom of the safe.
008

Freeing up space for on top.
009

Here it is in place. The safe, all steel, weighs 25 pounds and measures 16.5″ x 14.5″ x 7.75″. Also cool, you can place a full size laser printer on top (the swing arms are rated for up to 70 pounds).
010

Vista Monitor Mount SMD271 on an Ikea Jerker leg

I’m working on a project to turn an old computer (and an Ikea Jerker Storage Unit/Printer Shelf) into a standup desk. This will basically be a short task machine – you know, get some torrents going on it and walk away. I figure it will be good for testing internet connections – a minor supplement to a daily workhorse that is a standup or sitdown Jerker.

Anyway, I’ve started the process of assembly and along the way I thought I’d add some details about my go to Ikea Jerker monitor mount. But first I needed a monitor…

Here’s the $10 monitor I picked up at a local thrift store:

$10 monitor

Next, I went to TopTech/Open Box in Coquitlam, British Columbia (it’s in Henderson Place Mall) and picked up a $35 monitor mount that works right out of the box with Ikea Jerker leg hole patterns.

Labeled “VISTA LCD MOUNTING BRACKET SMD271” this thing is made of metal – not steel nor iron – maybe aluminum (but it feels pretty heavy for aluminum).

Here’s the photos:

$35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount

To attach the mount to the leg I picked up some bolts and wingnuts at Rona (a local hardware store). It went together really fast. With wingnuts you can re-position your monitor very easily, no tools required.

$35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount $35 monitor mount

Am I the first one to have thought of using an Ikea Jerker storage shelf as a standing desk? If not, send me photos of yours.

Ikea Jerker Drawer Unit

The Ikea Jerker drawer unit, designed to be used with the long desk, and the storage unit, is perhaps the rarest Ikea Jerker add-on made.

Ikea Jerker Drawer Unit Dimensions

Dimensions: 16.5″ x 15.75″ x 11.375″

Made of real wood and painted silver, it bolts into the bottoms of the either a steel storage rack, or a desk frame. It originally sold for about $50.

Here’s how it looks:

Ikea Jerker Drawer Unit mounted under a desk

Ikea Jerker Storage Unit with Drawers

I don’t have very much experience with the drawer unit, a friend’s mom has a set, but I’d like to get my hands on one, two, or maybe three sets.

If you have a set please let me how you like it. Do you use it? What do you keep in it? Would you redesign any element of it? Does it need handles?

Heightening Your Ikea Jerker the Hard way

In the old days you could just walk into an Ikea store and buy an extra Jerker shelf along with two metal extenders, two plastic joiners in a box and a bunch of bolts. Those days are long gone, now you have to grow your Jerker the hard way.

Ikea Jerker shelf with extensions accessory The leg extensions came in two sizes, 13″ or 16″,  I’m not sure which size went with which Jerker version as it was before I joined the “Jerker” cult. You could say I am still drinking the Kool-Aid. The 13″ extender has 9 bolt holes, while the 16″ extender has 11 bolt holes.

Two Ikea Jerker leg extensions holding up a very high shelfSince I didn’t have any plastic joining pieces I opted to heighten my Ikea Jerker by using two sets of extenders. The downside with this method is the number of bolts, 4 bolts on each side for a total of 8.

The dark extender is 16″ tall, whilst the light extender is a mere 13″ in length. I used wing nuts to ensure the six foot high shelf can hold a lot of weight.

Note that the bolts are offset by one in a diagonal fashion, this serves to strengthen the joint, but alas, comes with a doubling up of bolt holes.