I’m working on a project to turn an old computer (and an Ikea Jerker Storage Unit/Printer Shelf) into a standup desk. This will basically be a short task machine – you know, get some torrents going on it and walk away. I figure it will be good for testing internet connections – a minor supplement to a daily workhorse that is a standup or sitdown Jerker.
Anyway, I’ve started the process of assembly and along the way I thought I’d add some details about my go to Ikea Jerker monitor mount. But first I needed a monitor…
Here’s the $10 monitor I picked up at a local thrift store:
Labeled “VISTA LCD MOUNTING BRACKET SMD271” this thing is made of metal – not steel nor iron – maybe aluminum (but it feels pretty heavy for aluminum).
Here’s the photos:
To attach the mount to the leg I picked up some bolts and wingnuts at Rona (a local hardware store). It went together really fast. With wingnuts you can re-position your monitor very easily, no tools required.
Am I the first one to have thought of using an Ikea Jerker storage shelf as a standing desk? If not, send me photos of yours.
In the old days you could just walk into an Ikea store and buy an extra Jerker shelf along with two metal extenders, two plastic joiners in a box and a bunch of bolts. Those days are long gone, now you have to grow your Jerker the hard way.
The leg extensions came in two sizes, 13″ or 16″, I’m not sure which size went with which Jerker version as it was before I joined the “Jerker” cult. You could say I am still drinking the Kool-Aid. The 13″ extender has 9 bolt holes, while the 16″ extender has 11 bolt holes.
Since I didn’t have any plastic joining pieces I opted to heighten my Ikea Jerker by using two sets of extenders. The downside with this method is the number of bolts, 4 bolts on each side for a total of 8.
The dark extender is 16″ tall, whilst the light extender is a mere 13″ in length. I used wing nuts to ensure the six foot high shelf can hold a lot of weight.
Note that the bolts are offset by one in a diagonal fashion, this serves to strengthen the joint, but alas, comes with a doubling up of bolt holes.
When I wake up I eat cereal and drink coffee in front of my Ikea Jerker desk as I read the online news. I try not to spill but I am human, so I decided to make a side shelf take all the abuse instead.
The side shelf is mounted on the right side of the Jerker, and is easily strong enough to eat bacon and eggs on. I got the curved piece of wood in the “as-is” aisle at Ikea. Color doesn’t match though.
Underneath the shelf there are five bolts holding up the shelf. The screws are threaded into the supporting metal of the Ikea Jerker desk with a tap.
To ensure everything lines up
drill a small hole through the wood shelf that will accept the correct tap for bolt thread
drill a small hole through the just drilled hole, as a guide, into the bottom of the metal support bar
thread hole in metal
drill the small hole in the wood shelf slightly larger to enable bolt to slide through without resistance
mount wood shelf with ALL previously drilled holes with bolts threaded into the metal support onto the Jerker desk
I used to plug-in all my USB devices straight into my computer, until it wouldn’t boot anymore because of lack of power. My tiny Shuttle would just sit there with a black screen until I unplugged some of the USB devices stealing all the electricity. The solution was a powered USB hub which does not depend on the CPU for power.
I would recommend at least a 10 bay USB hub as I have gone past 10 devices several times. I have many USB devices, a keyboard, two mice, two phones, headphones, modem, fan, memory sticks, speakers, joystick, and six external hard drives.
I took the top off of an Ikea Jerker swing shelf and mounted a two by four piece of wood 8 inches long in place of the shelf. Note the two small black screws which hold the USB hub.
Here is the powered up USB hub with a lit up LED for each device to indicate that the device is getting power. You can also quickly shut them all off with a single power switch.
Here are two monitor mounts morphed into a single long arm. The arms come apart and together like Lego with the aid of a hex key. Sometimes holes have to be drilled in the aluminum monitor mount base to match the existing holes in the Jerker leg for fastening.
This monitor is two inches past the center of the Jerker desk, left to right.
Tilting the monitor is easy, however vertical adjustments are predicated on the 1 1/4″ hole spacing on the Jerker legs.
Available for $50, it fits perfectly between a Jerker’s legs, and is even attachable beneath a Jerker desk shelf!
You’re making a sandwich. The top bun is the grey Jerker PARTICLEBOARD shelf, the bottom bun is the ALEX Add-On Unit, and in between is the steel Jerker STRENGTHENER (the part you bolt to the legs).
Colors in Line Art Drawings:
Red – 2 felt marks on each side of the ALEX Add-on Unit for a total of 4 felt marks for lining up
Green – Where you drill through metal in the STRENGTHENER, 4 times, and wood in the ALEX Add-on Unit 24 times.
Blue – 8 Existing wood screw holes in the PARTICLEBOARD Jerker shelf
IMPORTANT! Before working on the real thing try, drilling and threading with a tap on some test materials first.
First, unbolt a shelf from your desk. Next, unscrew the eight wood screws holding the steel STRENGTHENER to the PARTICLEBOARD shelf. Keep these screws!
Next, line up the assembled ALEX Add-on Unit, upside-down, and flush with the front of the PARTICLEBOARD shelf so you can mark the locations of the existing wood screw holes on both of the ALEX’s sides with red felt.
Mark on the ALEX’s sides, where the outermost pair of holes are on the PARTICLEBOARD, for a total of four marks. Two on the left, and two on the right.
Now line up the marks on the left and right on the ALEX’s sides, with the STRENGTHENER’s holes. Make sure distances X and Y are the same or you will have a crooked set of drawers.
Now drill four small holes into the STRENGTHENER first and then through the ALEX’s top right after, not stopping. These four small metal holes need to be threaded with a tap to receive bolts. Be sure to keep these four holes hidden inside the drawers.
Also, each time you drill one of the four holes through the STRENGTHENER and ALEX’S top, stop and thread the metal hole with a tap. Then, re-drill the the ALEX’s top slightly larger so you have room to to push the bolt through wood to the metal thread without resistance.
Next, push a bolt through the Alex’s top and thread it into the metal STRENGTHENER. Repeat this step each time, so as to keep all the holes perfectly aligned.
Here we have the Alex attached to the STRENGTHENER with four black short threaded bolts. Now we need to drill eight holes through the ALEX so we can re-attach the drawers with the STRENGTHENER to the Jerker’s PARTICLEBOARD shelf.
Drill eight small holes through the ALEX’s top guided by the eight threaded holes in the metal STRENGTHENER when they are bolted together, four pairs of two.
IMPORTANT! Detach the STRENGTHENER from the ALEX before drilling the larger holes in the ALEX’s top.
To the right you can see four holes. The rightmost, the larger holes, being drilled through the ALEX’s top so that you can re-attach the STRENGTHENER to the Jerker shelf with the wood screws. This is a bottom view
Top view of Alex with all holes drilled out. Now re-attach the STRENGTHENER to the ALEX with the 4 small bolts so they can be screwed together with the PARTICLEBOARD shelf.
Use a magnetic screw driver, when lying on the ground, to guide the original wood screws through the large Alex holes, then through the smaller metal holes in STRENGTHENER, and finally into the original Jerker shelf to hold everything together. Two chairs work well to hold everything up in this front-on view.
With two people re-mount the newly built unit. Loosen all the side bolts on the Jerker legs to give space when fitting the new shelf in place. Here is a side view of a finished product.